October 1999 Volume 80 Number 10
"serving the protectors"
| October 1999 Volume 80 Number 10 "serving the protectors" |
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| Dining | |
As you take your first steps into Charlick’s Feed Store Restaurant and Wine Bar, you’re made to feel welcome. The colour tones, exposed brick work and beamed ceilings envelope you in an ambience of style.
My partner and I declined a drink at the wine bar and set course straight for the dinning room. We decided to dine on a Sunday night. Those like us, who prefer to eat in relative quietness, will enjoy Sunday nights and early week nights.
The menu changes regularly at Charlick’s, which indicates its reliance on seasonally fresh, quality produce. This crucial aspect comes through in the final product.
On offer for entrée were dishes such as asparagus and blue swimmer crab soup; Saskia’s mushroom and prosciutto tart; duck leg confit with pickled figs and rocket; black lipped mussels with chilli, garlic and white wine; and Pheasant Farm pâté with toasted bread and cornichons.
The quality continues into the main course with offerings such as seared venison fillet with roasted sweet potato and caramelised onions; baked Barossa chook with wild mushrooms, shallots and polenta; rare roo fillet with beetroot and horseradish cream; and rack of lamb with celeriac. All main courses are served with herbed waxy potatoes and salad.
For entrée we shared the Maggie Beer’s Pheasant Farm pâté. Like a thousand angels copulating on the tongue, this is one of the true taste sensations. The sharp-tasting pickled cornichons (miniature dill pickles) provided a dichotomy to the rich lusciousness of the pâté. I chose a glass of 1997 Rosemount Orange vineyard chardonnay to provide the final touch.
My partner’s choice of lamb came on a bed of celeriac. Celeriac is a cross between celery and potato. The texture and flavour of the celeriac - which had been combined with garlic and butter - was superb, and really made the dish. My kangaroo’s accompaniment of beetroot and horseradish was perfect. Thankfully, restaurants are moving away from the sickly sweet accompaniment which came with kangaroo during its early days on menus. A glass of Seppelt’s Shiraz washed the kangaroo down nicely.
The desert menu held waist-threatening puddings and chocolate concoctions which we declined. We had the cheese plate with quince paste instead. With my partner unable to resist, we sniffed and swilled down a couple of glasses of the 1996 Katnook Botrytis rieslings. Magnificent!
For a high-quality, contemporary dining experience, Charlick’s is the destination. The service, food and ambience is faultless. It will impress.
Where: Charlick’s Feed Store Restaurant and Wine Bar. Ebenezer Place East End, Ph 82237566. Open everyday for lunch and dinner (except Saturday lunch). Jazz in the wine bar Sunday 2:30pm to 5:30pm.
Prices: Entrée $9.00 to $13.00. Main course $20.00 to $27.00. Dessert all $9.50. Wine list $23.00 to $1,150 (1962 Penfold’s Bin 60A). Wine available by the glass.
Presidential Card not accepted.
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