August 2001 Volume 82 Number 8 "serving the protectors"
Committed to The good-food dream
By Jason Squire

The world-renown Clare Valley is a magnificent place with many country pubs to satisfy anyone. High-class fine dining restaurants, however, are not so abundant. But Tatehams at Auburn has changed this somewhat - it now provides a perfect spot to have dinner on a romantic weekend away for two, or a wine-tasting extravaganza with friends.

The 90-minute drive from the city centre to Auburn is pleasant and hassle-free. A restaurant such as Tatehams could be criticised for being in the wrong spot, but the owner, Isabelle Jeandupeux, told me she is committed to a dream of providing good, high-quality food in a world-class wine region. Isabelle, and her husband, Mike, are passionate about providing good service and the complete package for guests with a winery and bed and breakfast attached to the restaurant.

My partner and I visited Tatehams with a “Clare local” and his wife, and an old friend. It was a grand reuniting occasion and we needed a suitable place to chat about old times. We started off by tasting the house-produced Riesling and Shiraz. As one would expect, the Riesling was in typical Clare style - grassy and citrus with a fantastic balanced dry finish. The Shiraz was a heart-warmer with good colour and “good legs”, as the Clare local pointed out.

Isabelle told me they didn’t have any problems with suppliers, and the menu reflected this. A strong emphasis on fresh seasonal produce stood out. Most of the table started with a bowl of the steaming potato and leek soup, but the Clare local came out of left field and ordered “The Last Frenchie” - snails sautéed with wild garlic and served with kumera gratin and red onions reduction jus. The soup was fantastic and perfect for a bitterly cold day. The Clare local found the snails “interesting”.

The main course choices varied between the swordfish grilled with banana blossom salad and sapphire potato and creamy sage sauce - the roulade of veal and venison on walnut risotto and broccolini with a whole grain mustard sauce, and the Napoleon of beef medallions on savoury taro disc and oyster sauce. The precise presentation of the dishes brought gasps from the table when they arrived. Indeed, one lunch guest said the meals looked too good to eat - but they were eaten and the food was fantastic. The Clare local was a touch disappointed in the size, but no one could complain about the quality and attention to detail.

As the rain drove down outside, the pot belly kept us warm while the music wafted in the background providing the ideal ambience for a group of friends to catch up over a good meal. Tatehams didn’t let us down, and we were happy we had made the effort to get out to Auburn. Tatehams has the potential to establish itself as a regional restaurant, which will attract patrons from around the nation, just as the Pheasant Farm in the Barossa Valley has, and The Star of Greece does at Port Willunga. Get in before it gets crowded.

Where:	Main North Road, Auburn, Clare Valley. Ph (08) 8849 2030.
Entrée:	$11 - $19.
Main course:	$23 - $27.
Dessert:	$13.50.
Fully licensed with an enticing cellar under the restaurant.

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