May 2001 Volume 82 Number 5 "serving the protectors"
Amadora: expect to return
By Jason Squire

French food has an air of style and panache. This comes from its history and the dominant cooking techniques used to produce it. French cooking is the basis of western cuisine and, in recent years, its been threatened by fads and fashions such as fusion cooking. Nonetheless, it remains relevant and classic.

A classically trained fish chef (Chef de Poisson) recently told me that, during his time in some of Adelaides high-class kitchens, they only spoke French in deference to the cuisine! This history and respect for food often leaves French restaurants reserved for very special occasions, but Amadora Restaurant throws this theory out the window.

Since its stylish upgrade, Leigh Street has had an injection of life and couldnt be a better location for a classic French restaurant. Set in a beautiful old building, the atmosphere is formal but not restrictive. Polished floor boards, candles with piles of extinct wax, crisp white napkins and snappy service makes the ambience of the restaurant truly French and decidedly romantic.

The menu and wine list are extensive and deliciously inviting. The menu is in French with English translation. On offer for entre were dishes such as Patede Foies de Volailles, (chicken liver pate with cornichons and sour dough), Escargot en Coquilles ala Bourguignonne (snails with garlic, shallot and lemon butter). I chose the Boudin Noir aux Pommes (pan-fried black pudding in red wine with apples). My partner had oysters Kilpatrick.

My black pudding (blood pudding by another name) was delicious. The apples poached in red wine were refreshing and different against the pudding. We accompanied our dinner with a bottle of 98 DArenburg Shiraz Grenache, which was stunning.

For main course, I chose the LEntrecote dAmadora (grain-fed sirloin steak) with potato crostillants (very thin slices of potato deep-fried), wilted endives and Barnaise sauce. My partner had the Poulet aux ECrevisses au Jambon (corn-fed chicken filled with ham and prawns served with a mushroom and onion risotto and hollandaise sauce).

To choose these two dishes was quite difficult. The menu is brimming with meat and seafood dishes with luscious sauces. I rarely eat steak, but I simply believe you cant get any better than good-quality steak with a Barnaise or hollandaise sauce. The creamy sharp richness of these sauces complements the meat beyond question.

As expected, the Barnaise was perfect, as was my medium-rare steak. The crispy crostillants provided a crunchy, contrasting texture, which I thought quite interesting and memorable. My partners chicken was rich and filling. The prawns and ham had been pulped and stuffed into the chicken and smothered with hollandaise sauce. I had a small taste and it was extremely good.

With the size of the meals so big, we couldnt fit in desserts, but Im thinking about going back simply to taste them. French desserts stand out from the crowd. With dishes such as profiteroles filled with almond and mascarpone praline served with vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce, you can understand why. I also like the way French make dessert so dramatic, with flamb fruits and crepes cooked at your table. A very suitable way to finish a fine dining experience with a balloon of muscat and the reflection of candle light in your partners eye.

Amadora Restaurant isnt one of these big-plate and shivering-little-portion restaurants. You pay the price for first-class French food, which doesnt leave you wanting. My partner and I left Amadora expecting to return. So will you.

Where:	Amadora Restaurant (www.amadora.com.au), 18 Leigh Street, Adelaide. Ph 8231 7611.
Entrée:	$7 - $12.
Main course:	$25.
Dessert:	$9.90 - $15. Omelettes and Salads available.

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